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Længe har jeg gået med en underlig fornemmelse i mit hovede når jeg har talt længe i mobiltelefon. Men jeg har skudt det hen, dels fordi producenter og myndigheder siger god for mobilen – der er ingen fare. Dels fordi det nok bare var min sædvanlige overudviklede Netdoktor-diagnostik-stil. Du ved; hvis du søger på ondt i hovedet er hjernesvulst det første hit, stærkt fulgt af alarmerende højt blodtryk og livsfarligt stress.

Men så faldt jeg over dette gamle reklameskilt på en gade i London. Og nu har jeg det underligt over det hele.

The Old Inn, Danish food and history

Let me say this straight away. The food is not special, but the location is awesome (as any respectful American would say when met with this overwhelming site of Danish culture). Basically this is an old inn that has existed since 1683, making it one of the oldest existing restaurants in Denmark. It�s situated near Hans Christian Andersen�s childhood home and the SAS Radisson Casino and Hotel, in the old part of Odense. Here the houses are low and crooked, the streets narrow and the atmosphere cozy. In the summertime the town�s watchman begins his round in this historical quarter, waking all the residents with his song �The time is ten, all is normal�, but charming all the tourists.

What really makes The Old Inn special is the combination of the many different rooms in the restaurant, and the attention to detail there is in the decoration. All the rooms are decorated with antiques and old furniture that adds to the experience of walking in to a long forgotten world of dining and drinking in Denmark.

The many special rooms have their own history; like the old wine cellar with arches and walls from the 14 century, and the party room that holds many special antiquities, among them what is claimed to be the original drinking glass of Struense, a Danish politician who served as doctor for King Christian 7. Over time Struense gained big influence on the insane Kings rulings. It is said that Struense reformed the Danish administration, introduced freedom of press and abolished torture. He was decapitated two years later.

The most prominent room in The Old Inn is The Atrium. It is an original courtyard located between two old houses, that since 1956 have had a retractable glass roof that makes it possibly to eat out in a typical Danish courtyard in the winter and under open sky in the summertime.

As I mentioned I wouldn�t go for the food, which is mostly basic Danish food, a bit on the expensive side considering that the taste is based primarily on sauce and potatoes. But it is definitely worth a visit because of the special surroundings. And you do get something for your buck. Here you don�t use paper towels at the bathroom to dry your hands. A stack of cloth towels is beside the bathroom sink for your convenience.

Expect to pay DKR. 25, – for a normal bottle of beer, between DKR 65, – to 100, – for a starter and between DKR 160,- to 230,- for a main course.

Den Gamle Kro
Overgade 23
5000 Odense C
+45 66 12 14 33

Saint Knuds Church, Odense Denmark

Whether or not you believe in god, you must believe in mans ability to construct beautiful buildings. In the middle of the city you will find St. Knud�s Church. A very beautiful Gothic building that has inherited its name from King Knud. King Knud tried to strengthen the royal power using tough means and writing out heavy taxes. He was killed during a peasant uprising in 1086. At that time the church was a smaller wooden church called St. Albans Church. St. Knud and his men fought bravely but was outnumbered and killed, one by one, the King last, in front of the altar. Or at least so does the painting tell the story.

King Knud was canonized in 1101 and his skeletal remains can be seen in the crypt at the back of the church. It is a room with a very special atmosphere; we don�t have many saints (or skeletal remains in open coffins) in Denmark. The crypt also holds the remains of St. Knud�s brother St. Benedikt, which became honored as a local saint because he died as a martyr at his brother�s side.

The altarpiece is worth a good look. The altarpiece was originally commissioned by Queen Christine for the now demolished Gray friars Church. It is cut by the local woodcarver Claus Berg, and is seen as his masterpiece. And it is fair to call it a masterpiece. Finished in 1521, before the reformation that lead to the protestant church in Denmark, it reveals in 23-carat gold leaf more and more detail the closer you get.

It is free to visit St. Knud`s Church and it is open during daytime, except when there is a ceremony. At the entrance of the Church you will find a general leaflet in German, English and Danish. As well as a more detailed leaflet at a price of Danish Kroner. 10,-.

The church arranges midnight sermons, prayers and occasionally it holds evensongs.

Homepage: Odense Domkirke

Carlsens Kvarter, Beerlovers heaven

This is where I go to drink my beer and without any blushing I can say that this is the best place in the city to drink beer and hang out. It got its name from a Danish radio sitcom about the family Karlsen that ran in Denmark´s Radio from 1967 to 1984.

The changing of the K to a C in the name is because of the original owner´s name was Carlsen. What really makes this nice and cozy pub famous is the selection of internationally renowned beers that you can taste and get expert opinion on from a very interested staff. People working at Carlsens Kvarter simply loves beer. Not in the sense of drinking a lot of beer in a short time, but they value beer like some people value good wine. By the way, you won´t see any of the staff drinking any alcoholic beverages while they work. Occasionally you see a waiter at a table in his own time but never drunk and never out of style.

The design of the rooms is a beautiful mess of everything from tiger wallpaper to old ship lanterns. Located in an old pharmacy, you can still see the crisp opal white glass ceiling.

To explain a bit about the mood at Carlsens Kvarter; the waiters will call you by first name, except if they see you with someone they don´t know, in that case they will nod gently and say hello, not showing they know who you are. Here the old rules of pub going are kept alive. Every table minds their own business, except if you´re invited and accepts to chat. This rule is certainly not keeping the mood down, on a Friday night most guests are talking and chatting, but on a Friday afternoon, you can sit alone with your newspaper and have a pint while you calm down after another week. Another old rule is that there is no service at the bar, the waiters will come to your table, you cant drink at the bar only at a tables, and then it´s preferred that the ladies sit at the window so people passing by can see it´s a nice place.

Carlsens Kvarter, the translates into Carlsen´s 15 minutes, has a rich collection of Belgian beer. Both the Trappist beers, brewed in monasteries by monks, but also all the best beers found while traveling through Belgium and tasting every beer you stumble over. Benny Weble, the owner that changed the pub from a pub with the ordinary selection of danish beer into a pub with imported beers in 1997, imports a vast selection of beers on his own, driving to Belgium, picking them up and bringing them back home. As well as beer from most of the best Danish microbreweries, the best from France, UK, Czechoslovakia, Austrai and of course Germany. This place is simply a tribute to good beer and the people who loves quality and to try something new.

To show how appreciated this place is, not only in Odense, but in all of Denmark, Carlsens Kvarter is where the association of Danish beer enthusiasts was started 15 years ago, now holding 5000 members.

There´s is only one reason to find another place to drink your beer in Odense and that is if you like British beer. Then you must visit Christian firtal, named after the danish King Christian the 4th. That pub has the biggest selection of imported British beer in Odense, even real cask ale which I don´t think you will find many places in Denmark, maybe only at Christian Firtal.

Here are the details, have a blast.

Carlsens Kvarter
Hunderupvej 19
5000 Odense C
+45 63 11 01 10

Expect to pay from DKR 35,- to DKR 50,- for a pint of beer.

Christian Firtal
Vintapperstræde 31
5000 Odense C
+45 66 17 88 56

Expect to pay from DKR 35, – to DKR 50, – for a pint of beer.
Danish Beer Enthusiasts

Accomodation in Odense, Denmark

Many of my friends are, as my self, from Copenhagen. So when I have a party or many visitiors at one time I must arrange accommodation for those who can�t sleep at my place. This is some of the places that have showed themselves good.

Andersen�s Bed and Breakfast was very friendly, reliable and relatively cheap. All communication worked via email and they answered swiftly. We payed DKR 270, – for a single room a night, and they charge DKR 320, – for a double. You get your own key so you can come and go as you like, and the rooms are on the first floor of the house. Breakfast is not included in the price, only thing to remember is to bring cash; they do not accept credit cards. My guests were very pleased with the rooms and the stay.

Andersen Bed and Breakfast

Here is a list of other Bed and Breakfasts in Odense; I have not any experiences with these:

Bed and Breakfast in Odense
My mother�s favorite is Turisthotellet, which is located in a very quiet and nice neighborhood called Gerthasminde. The couple that owns the hotel, Jytte and Frederik Andersen, are extremely nice people and when my mother slept there she payed DK 600, – for a double room a night, a single room costs DKR 400,-, the prices include breakfast. What really blew her away was the decoration which is old and cozy with antique furniture. The breakfast is eaten in the dining room of the owners and the breakfast is great with everything the heart desires, even Gammel Dansk, which is a Danish spirit especially appreciated in the morning (by some).

All in all it was a very good experience, very homely, as my mom puts it. The hotel only has 4 rooms so vacancies are hard to find.

Here is the link to the Hotel.
Turist Hotellet

My mother slept one Christmas at the Clarion Plaza near the central train station. That�s an okay hotel, very beautiful entrance and reception. The rooms are nice and the service is good, but it�s not special in any sense, it�s just a hotel. My mom recalls to have paid around DKR 750, – for a double room.

Clarion Plaze Hotel

Here is the link to local tourist office where you can find much more about Odense and accommodation:

Odense Turist

Tilgængelighed

”Alting går så hurtigt”. Jeg står ved busstoppestedet og overhører en ældre dame der klager til sin veninde. Jeg er på kanten til at blive irriteret og får lyst til at kaste en rask fordom i hendes retning, men jeg gør det ikke. For på en eller anden måde kan jeg ikke frigøre mig fra at have tænkt noget lignende.

Udviklingen er ustoppelig og en del af fundamentet vores samfund står på. Selv kravene til udvikling udvikler sig – før kunne en virksomhed der gav overskud betragtes som en succes, i dag skal den samme virksomhed være i konstant og målbar vækst for at få kvalitetsstemplet fra de sultne aktionærer.

Så hvis den gamle dame synes det går stærkt, så er det nok fordi hun har ret. Det går lige så stærkt som det altid har gjort. I rasende udvikling fra Australopithecus, der havde store kæber og en lille hjerne, til os der har tre gange så meget hjerne, men meget mindre kæber. Os der bruger de første atten år af vores liv på at forberede os på at leve. Os der har placeret os selv øverst på fødekæden og bliver meget bekymrede hvis en haj, krokodille eller virus forsøger at vise os noget andet.

Det er udviklingen. Konstant og kværnende bruger den os, generation for generation, og smider os væk inden vi når at sløve den med vores træthed. I sig selv er udviklingen lige så ligegyldig som indpakningen af fødselsdagsgaven. Det er indholdet der er interessant. Hvad er det jeg får ud af den udvikling? Og svaret starter lige der mellem mine ydmyge Homo Sapiens kæber.

I gamle dage var noget af det fineste man kunne servere hakket kød. Processen at tilberede og hakke kødet var så langsommelig at det primært lod sig gøre i hjem med køkkenpersonale. Personalet kunne igen og igen findele og hakke kødet i stadig mindre stykker. I dag har udviklingen givet os alle hakket kød. Og tak gud for det, endelig kan vi æde os gennem tatar, hakkebøffer, frikadeller og kødsovs uden besvær. Den fortyggede mad er blevet allemandseje. Faktisk fattigmandseje. Nu er det nærmest blevet fint at have råd til at servere mad man selv skal tygge.

Fysikeren og tænkeren Michael Goldhaber hævder at et samfunds økonomi defineres af det der er den knappeste ressource. Af den grund har guldet på et tidspunkt været grundlag for vores økonomi. Vi talte varmt om informationssamfundet, da det ikke var alle forundt at få alle informationer stillet til rådighed døgnet rundt og nu, hvor internettet giver omgående adgang til alt, taler vi om opmærksomhedsøkonomien, hvor det er nødvendigt at økonomisere med hvor man retter sin opmærksomhed hen – for der er ikke nok opmærksomhed til alle dem der kræver den af os.

Ved at definere samfundet og dets økonomi ud fra den knappeste ressource tegner vi også et billede af vores samtid. Ligegyldigt hvilken knap ressource der dominerer tankerne, vil adgangen til den definere hvad rigdom er og derigennem definere et klassesystem.

Jeg voksede op i Gentofte i startfirserne. Lige overfor Jægersborg Hotel boede min ven Carsten i et stort hvidt hus. Han var den første jeg kendte hvis familie havde en videoafspiller. En kæmpestor og grim Video-2000 afspiller, hvor skuffen sprang op når man trykkede eject, lige som på de gammeldags liggende kassettebåndoptagere. Med andægtig mine indsatte vi den evige Trinity-film, der var rituelt lejet på den lokale Esso-tankstation.

Apparatet var dyrt som ind i helvede og gengav ikke i synderlig god kvalitet. Altid sloges vi med trackingknappen for at få fjernet striberne øverst på skærmen. Filmenes kvalitet var heller ikke værd at råbe hurra for. Men der var ikke rigtig andet der på væggen hos Esso – vi havde vel 20-30 film at vælge mellem. Alligevel gik vi ned til Carsten og så video, fuldstændig ukritisk, når som helst vi kunne slippe af sted med det.
Blandt andet fordi det fede svar på spørgsmålet: ”Hvad lavede du i går?” var: ”Jeg så video”.

Video er jo video, om det er lagret på store 2” bånd, på VHS eller DVD. Den største udvikling skete ikke rent teknisk – alle videomedierne kan jo lagre og afspille. Til gengæld tog tilgængeligheden den-skæggede-dame-effekten ud af video. Langt de fleste har nu en videoafspiller eller flere. Det er de færreste der frivilligt vælger en Trinityfilm mellem de hundredvis af Hollywoodtilbud der findes i enhver kiosk, på ethvert gadehjørne.

Halvtredsernes teknologiske tilbedelse med den let fremtidsfordrukne forudsigelse af raketrygsække og videotelefoner er blevet symbolet på udvikling. Men i virkeligheden er det jo tilgængeligheden der burde være hyldeststatuen. For tænk hvordan tilgængeligheden til uddannelse og fritid, offentlig transport og biler, kultur og fjernsyn, for slet ikke at tale om vaccine, ernæringskorrekt mad, familieplanlægning og hygiejne har ændret vores liv og kvaliteten af dem.

Jeg har svært ved at forklare min datter på ni år hvordan fjernsynet var da jeg var dreng for kun 25 år siden. Der kom sne på skærmen om aftenen når DR ikke havde mere at sende den dag Og hvis man ikke var så heldig at kunne se tysk eller svensk fjernsyn, så var der altså én kanal at vælge mellem. Valget var om man skulle se fjernsyn eller ej. Ikke om man skulle se Cartoon Network, Fox Kids eller Bubber. Omvendt har hun svært ved at forklare mig hvordan hun et-eller-andet på sin computer, for hun har allerede haft tre computere og bruger dem instinktivt. Jeg fik min første, en Commodore 64, da jeg blev 14 år, efter troskyldigt at have lært at programmere små stumper Comal-80 kode, på store, brune RC computere efter skoletid på et loftrum over ungdomsskolen.

Hendes problem med at indvie mig, ligner det jeg ville have hvis jeg skulle forklare mine tipoldeforældre at jeg har råd til alt det peber og te jeg har brug for – og for den sags skyld snupper en øl når det passer mig.

Tilgængelighed, tilgængelighed, tilgængelighed. Vi, det jævne folk, den brede middelklasse, kræver tilgang til de riges glæder. Ellers bliver der revolution! Og derfor skal man nok ikke se sig selv som offer for udviklingen, men snarere som årsag.

Minuteman

Jeg skylder mit liv til Stanislav Petrov. Det gør du formodentligt også. Ligesom resten af den vestlige verden, måske hele verden. Denne mand afværgede et russisk gengældelsangreb med atomvåben natten mellem d. 25. og 26. september 1983. Udelukkende fordi han holdt hovedet koldt. I Weekendavisen taler Anne Libak med Petrov, i en samtale der afslører hvor tæt verden var på det mareridstagtige scenarie som er afbilledet i film og vores fantasi utallige gange. Nu lever Petrov i en udslidt lejlighed sammen med sin søn – og der er intet helt over ham længere. Men fordrukken og gammel eller ej – han er et symbol på hvor kold den kolde krig var og hvor heldigt det var at der fandtes fornuftige mennesker på begge sider.

Se også denne hyldestside til Stanislav Petrov.

Some facts of Odense

The first thing you notice about Odense is the size. It is a very small town � not compared to other danish towns, it is the third-largest city in Denmark, and the locals hate it when people believe that the third-largest town is Aalborg, which actually is the fourth-largest � but compared to citys in general it is not what you would call a big town in any sense.

So just to be sure that you will be on friendly foot with the locals, here is a list of the biggest danish citys with an estimate of inhabitants. If you memorize this list, you will know a lot more about Danish geography than your ordinary Danish first grader:

Copenhagen is the capital of Denmark and further than hosting the Danish Queen and her family, Copenhagen has roughly 1.5 million inhabitants. If you look at a map of Denmark you can � if you have the smallest creative gift � make out that Denmark have some similarity with a garden gnome with a snotty nose. The nose has produced two islands (I promise I won�t mention what they are made of). Copenhagen is located on the right side of the island Sealand, that is the one further most right, next to Sweden.

The second largest city is located in the other end of the country. Aarhus is located just below the nose, in Jutland, and hosts some 250.000 Danes. People from Copenhagen tease people from Aarhus with the occasional Aarhus-vits, which means jokes about people from Aarhus and their stupidity. I.e. �Why do people from Aarhus take the house in at night? Because they feel sorry for the houses if they have to be out at night�. Now you are familiar with the standard. Some say that these jokes actually reflect the mental standard of Copenhageners more than the IQ of Aarhus-people.

At the top of the middle island Funen we find Odense. Odense has roughly 180.000 inhabitants and hosts the largest hospital in Denmark. It functions as a university hospital as well as an ordinary one. As already said, this is not the biggest city in the world, but it can be one of the cozier, and coziness counts for a lot in Denmark.

Just to put the record straight. Just below the gnomes hat you will find Aalborg with its 155.000 inhabitants.

Now you know the geography, let�s take a look at a few practical Danish travel terms.

The Danish currency is Danish Kroner, but in bigger stores and shops you can pay with Euro notes, its rare that coins are accepted. You must expect your change to be in Kroner, notes as well as coins. Visa is widely accepted as well as most other big brands of credit cards. Tips and service are included in the bill in restaurants and in taxicabs. But it is still nice to leave some appreciation of the waiter (normally up to 10% of the bill), don�t tip in cabs except if you really feel for it.

We drive in the right side of the road, our international phone prefix is +45, almost everyone speaks a little English, at least enough to lead you on a detour. On the island of Funen and the southern parts of Jutland most people speak German as their second language.

And that�s basically Denmark for you. I hope you will have a nice stay in Odense � or at least a tolerable one.